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154                    The “Recording” (Camera icon) Menu Settings


           And for many years, TTL was the best way to do automatic flash in the
           35mm film camera world.
           TTL will do an outstanding job of giving you perfectly-exposed pictures in
           all situations EXCEPT those where the flash happens to bounce off a mirror
           or window in the background.  In cases like this, the camera measures the
           pre-flash light that is bouncing back off of the mirror, and says, “Whoa!!
           That’s WAY too much light coming in!  I’d better put out much less light in
           order for me to expose this scene correctly!”  Therefore, in situations where
           you were using a flash and a window or mirror was in the background, the
           subject would invariably come out severely underexposed.
           This  is  why  ADI  (Advanced  Distance  Integration)  was  invented.    ADI
           works exactly like TTL, except it also takes the distance the lens is focused
           to into account when calculating the flash exposure.  By incorporating the
           distance information into the intensity-calculating algorithm, you can have
           the best of both worlds – the accuracy of TTL without its Achilles’ heel.
           (See examples in Figure 5-20 and Figure 5-21.)

           Today  ADI  works  with  all  Sony  lenses;  however  Minolta  lenses  made
           before  the  year  2000  that  don’t  have  the  “D”  designation  in  their  name
           aren’t  capable  of  encoding  the  distance  information.    Mounting  such  an
           older lens onto the camera will automatically default the flash mode to Pre-
           flash TTL.

           Usually I have this menu item set to “ADI” because the camera switches to
           pre-flash TTL if you ever tried to bounce the flash or take it off the camera
           and use it wirelessly.

           The A77 II has a third setting for this feature – “Manual Flash”.  This does
           what you think it does – instead of calculating how much light should be
           put out, the pop-up flash just blindly outputs a fixed amount of light (as
           determined by the Power Ratio setting, described next).  This applies only
           to  the  pop-up  flash  –  in  fact,  when  an  accessory  flash  attached  to  the
           camera  this  option  is  greyed  out.    If  you  want  manual  output  on  your
           accessory flash, the controls to do that will be on the flash’s control panel.









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